Traditional. Durable. Handcrafted. Distinctive.
The art of Goodyear Welt manufacturing by Dapper Lane
For more than 300 years, the Goodyear Welting process has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. More than 60 craftsmen are involved in the process of manufacturing one of our Goodyear shoes, and they use between 25 and 50 different elements and pieces. All this involves a process with more than 120 handcrafted phases, from beginning to end.
Shoe construction methods
There are three basic methods of shoe construction: cementing, blake welting, and Goodyear welting. We use both, Blake and Original Goodyear production methods. Each of them has its advantages and defines how the sole is attached to the upper. Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labour-intensive, and most durable of the three methods of construction.
Sign of superior quality
In 1872 Charles Goodyear invented the machine capable of stitching the welt to the insole, thus revolutionizing the quality of footwear worldwide. Due to its longstanding heritage, little-needed maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetic, Goodyear method is highly valued in the high-end shoe market.
Handcrafted tradition. How we made them?
The first part of the process is preparing the insole for stitching. This is done by creating a perpendicular “rib” that runs across the insole. The second step is to last the shoe. This is done by stretching the outsole over the last and attaching it, along with the insole, to the last. Part three is the actual welting. At this point, the shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, the upper, and the insole rib. Through a separate stitch, the welt is attached to the outsole.
Made to order production. Goodyear à la carte
Almost all of our Men’s Dress shoe styles (Blake Welted) can also be ordered with Goodyear Welting and produced Made-to-Order (single order) as well as Bulk (small batches).
Given the labour-intensive and artisan methods used, Goodyear Welted shoes from the most recognized brands around the world usually take up to eight weeks of production. We offer made-to-order production (single orders) with a turnaround time of just 3-4 weeks, just the same as Blake Welted shoes.